The cooperative-named Ara (“this is”) Cahayani (“sun or light”) Gayo (for Aceh’s location in the Gayo Highlands)-has 1,800 farmer-members who receive hands-on technical support from Nespresso agronomists, premiums for producing high-quality coffee, and other incentives and benefits offered through Nespresso’s AAA Sustainable Quality™ Program. To bring the Master Origin Indonesia Arabica to the world, Nespresso, Fairtrade, and coffee supplier Olam established a new Fairtrade coffee cooperative in Aceh in 2017. “Together with the plant varieties and the particular microbes that get into the beans and affect the fermentation, the wet hulling creates this unique flavor most often likened to the taste or aromatics of cured pipe tobacco.” Yet, instead of damaging coffee quality, Shirin says, the imperfections caused by wet hulling actually help enhance the flavor. Since the Sumatran cherries are much wetter when they are hulled, the beans take a bit of a beating in the process. Umi helps farmers pick coffee cherries during harvest season in Pante Raya Dalam Village, Wih Pesam Region of Bener Meriah Regency.
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